Spring Break Trip, Part 3
Dates: Mar 24-26, 2024
Crew: Sean, Monica, Yisha, Ben
Locations: Red Rock Canyon NCA, Hoover Dam, Muddy Mountains Wilderness, Las Vegas
The most anticipated part of the trip was here- climbing in Red Rock Canyon (aka Red Rocks), a world-famous destination for sandstone sport and trad climbing. Heading back into town from Death Valley, we decided to swing by Red Rocks on the way to scope out the place. It was already late afternoon when we rolled through the one way canyon drive, and huge storms were raining on the mountains that ringed us in. We stayed ahead of the desert rains and went to wait for Sean to get into town with $10 of quarters at the Pinball hall of fame. It was actually really fun and a great way to kill a few hours for cheap. My favorite machines were all the early '60s space-themed games, of course.
Huge storm rolls in over the Canyon.
Vintage machines at the Pinball Hall of Fame.
Waking up early, we made our way back to the canyon, where we pulled off and descended into, then climbed up out of, the roadside canyon towards Civilization crag. Sean's friend from his helicopter squadron Navy/NASA tour met up with us as well, and we started right out with leading up some moderate 5.9 and 5.10 routes.
Above: At the base of Civilization crag
Below: Ben and Yisha route-hunting
Moves on Conquistador (5.10d) overlooking the vast canyon.
On climbing days, we wear pink.
Sean on Manifest Destiny (5.9+)
Snowstorm in the desert!
As we climbed, a large dark gray cloudmass moved in from the north. At first we just had our eye on it, and then suddenly it was really barreling at us. Rushing to wrap up our climbs after only a couple hours out, we packed up and headed down right as it hit us. It turned out to be a snow/sleet mix storm! Talk about unexpected desert weather. It nuked any chance of climbing for the rest of the day, so we put our heads together and decided to jaunt over to the Hoover dam instead.
Big-time canyon views from Civilization, looking West.
An hour of circumventing Vegas later, we were cruising up the canyon towards the Hoover Dam. We got to drive across it and walk across it, seeing the massive spillways that once received overflow when Lake Mead reached its maximum in 1983. The water level from then is still visible in a white band of rock above the present day level. The four massive intake towers (two on Arizona side and two on Nevada side) rise high out of the water.
Lake Mead under cloudy skies.
The 400-foot intake towers (Arizona side).
Above: USGS marker.
Below: Some of the art deco friezes.
40 feet of bleached rock show the all-time high water level.
We did the basic power plant tour, which took us down an elevator 600 feet into the dam where we could see the internal workings of the water-carrying pipes, cave-like passages that were carved out 95 years ago during construction, and one of the hydroelectric generator rooms, where the hum of water and electricity conveys a real sense of power. I had fun counting the electrical insulator disks on the power lines above the dam to convince myself it really was really 220,000 volts being created (it was).
The Winged Figures of the Republic.
The generator room, 730 feet deep in the dam.
At the dam overlook.
Monica free soloing alongside an aid climber.
Damn big dam...
From the dam we wound our way down the Lake Mead National Recreation Area, where we diverted into the Muddy Mountains Wilderness to do a little rockhounding. Ben and Yisha had gotten very into geology so we went in search of agates, including the layered "bacon" agate. A bumpy dusty ride down an old mining road led us to loose limestone hills where we wandered in search of deposits.
Occasionally we came across an old mineshaft or pit, sloppily roped off with barbed wire and signs to ward off intruders, and piles of abandoned trash and decades old mining equipment marked where operations used to occur. It was both interesting and pretty sad to see the messes we make.
Back in Vegas, we had dinner at Taco Tijuana and retired to the airbnb. At about 1am Vegas had one more suprise in store for us. I was sleeping on the couch when Yisha burst into the room and told me not to worry, she'd already called 911. I had no idea what she was talking about, until we opened the window to see a raging dumpster fire on the street right outside. I had been sleeping peacefully through it, but the 30-foot flames were bright as all hell and melting the dumpster rapidly while someone out there was screaming (I couldn't hear it). We watched the fire rage until the fire department finally showed up to put it out. What a (literal) dumpster fire.
The sights and sounds of Vegas...
Waking up to the smell of fresh dumpster fire in the morning, we needed to kill a little time before trying to climb, since the sandstone would need to dry for 24 hours since yesterday morning's rain. We went downtown and walked the touristy part of vegas to get a delicious brunch at Hash House a Go Go, above a casino. I was not impressed with the casinos and their cigarette stench.
Finally we drove back out to the canyon, and of course arrived at the same time as a fresh rain cloud. We decided even if we couldn't climb, we would scramble up to some of the crags to scout for tomorrow.
Ridgewalkers, silhouetted against the canyon massif.
Chimney scamble.
A lightly strenuous hike and scramble up a chimney and over a sandstone spine took us to the stratocaster area, where some of the most fun and famous climbs sit. It was sprinkling a cold rain so we took shelter in a wide cave, hunkering down on natural sandstone couches to eat lunch.
Monica in the throne.
Sean scopes out the valley from our cave shelter.
Above: desert flowers and cacti.
Below: desert mouse.
Muad'dib
The cave also yielded an encounter with a desert mouse and an opportunity to scramble up higher to reach the walls we wanted to climb tomorrow. We hung out, crawled into some more holes in the rock, and generally relaxed with the soil still too wet to ethically justify climbing today.
Yisha and Monica find a 5.10 they'd like to try tomorrow.
Sean looks for something hard to climb.
Monica blends in as she wanders the rocks.
Finally the sun breaks through the incessant clouds.
Fun with caves!
Yisha tries out the shelter.
One last stop in the throne room on our way down.
With nothing to climb, we eventually headed back down the canyon and went back to the pinball hall of fame for more! A couple hours there and dinner at Dirt Dogs (delicious, non-dirty hot dog restaurant) and we were in bed early to try and truly get some climbing in tomorrow.
Golden sunset at the hall of fame.
Spending our quarters wisely!
In the morning we packed up our airbnb, said farewell to the dumpster fire, and headed off to Red Rocks bright and early. We started up the canyon and first went to Gallery Wall to warm up, where we climbed a lovely set of routes to get things kicked off. All were face climbing with small but positive holds of hardened oxidized sandstone (desert varnish) and slightly overhung. I climbed Buck's muscle world, 5.9, Gelatin Pooch, 5.10a, and Running Amuck, 5.10c and felt good about the day's prospects.
Finally a perfect morning!
Sean zeroes in on a bird.
Yisha climbing the desert varnish flakes.
Monica leads it up!
From there we repeated yesterday's familiar scramble to the cave hideout and Stratocaster area. Sean took an interest in Marshall Amp (5.11b, 105ft) and I started working on One Eyed Jacks (5.11b, 40ft) so we both started to lead and figure out the beta. A very light rain and snow was intermittently falling as clouds passed overhead, but the overhanging walls stayed dry and we took shelter in various caves and holes in between attempts.
Sharing a hideout with the local cactus.
Sizing up routes on the slickrock.
Scrambling a low-angle crack system to gain Stratocaster base area.
As the day drew to a close, I was feeling good about my One-Eyed Jack beta and put in a real try, and was able to send it! Then I went over to watch Sean work his way up the much taller Marshall Amp, which was a very picturesque route up a line of hollows in the ramp-shaped wall. 80 feet up, he climbed past a huge raven's nest and the birds turned out to be inside, staring him down as he climbed past.
Yisha belays me on a scouting climb.
Figuring out the crux.
Happy to be climbing!
Sean among the sea of holds.
Shaking out on my Send go of One-Eyed Jack
As he topped out, I felt so confident I had him leave the draws up to try it myself. There was only time for one try before we really needed to go to the airport, so I hurried up it. The very overhanging bottom was taxing and involved some upside-down heel-hooking and bold climbing. I may have overcommitted myself after the other climb and found my arms running out of grip strength near the top. Suddenly I was about 15 feet above my last bolt when I totally pumped out and couldn't hold on at all. I took a fall that ended up being the biggest lead fall of my life (15 ft above bolt + 15 ft swing below bolt + rope stretch = about 40 foot fall). It was a clean, safe fall but still scary! Luckily the adrenaline gave me some life back and I finished the climb out in time for us to make a mad dash back to the airport.
Sean climbs past the nest on Marshall Amp
Me, trying not to peel off from exhaustion in the same spot.
After running down the slickrocks to get to the car, we drove straight to the airport to get the car returned and on our flights. A partially successful trip, but through no fault of our own. Turns out March might just be rainy season in Vegas. Anyways, Red Rock has much more to offer so there's no doubt in my mind we'll be back!