Colorado Skiing 2024

Dates: Feb 22 - Mar 4, 2024

Crew: Monica Mah, Brennan Cordova, Katie Tooher // Katelin Cramer, Gavin Rye, Mark Pipp, Sawyer Braun

Locations: Copper Mountain, Vail, Breckenridge, Keystone, Florissant Fossil Beds NM, Cave of the Winds, Garden of the Gods

When Worlds Collide

When planning this year's edition of the Out West Ski Trip (TM) with the Brighton Bunch, we settled on finally going to the mecca itself- Colorado. Add in Kate who is an avid skier and we had a party going, settling on President's day week. We'd make our home base Breckenridge but throw in days at Vail and Keystone, nearby resorts on the same Epic pass. Things only got crazier when Monica started planning her own ski trip for President's Day Weekend and I saw an opportunity to chain the two together. After a little bit of logistics, I had a plan:

Fly in from Houston to Denver with the NASA ski trippers
Rent a car and drive to Monica's mom's place in Silverthorne
Ski 2 days at Copper Mountain
Switch over to staying at Breck with the Midwest ski trippers
Ski Breckenridge, Vail, and Keystone for a total of 4 days
Drive back to Denver, seeing something cool along the way!

Days 1-3: NASA Takeover on Copper Mountain

After a long day of travel to get to Denver, rent a car and drive in the mountain traffic out to Silverthorne, we crashed hard. The next morning we woke up early to eat a good breakfast and set out for Copper Mountain. After three years of coming out west, my first Colorado skiing experience!

With three peaks (Union, Tucker, and Copper), Copper had a ton of terrain for us to explore over the next 2 days. I was stoked to have Brennan as a fellow snowboarder, and Monica and Katie are experienced Colorado skiers who could lead the way easily.

A few more trails than Mt. Brighton...

Waiting to ride the t-bar into National Forest land and the summit.

Panorama from Copper's Eastern slopes atop the Spaulding Bowl.

A highlight for me was heading up to the peak via t-bar, the first time I'd had to ride one of these lifts that are definitely not made for snowboarders. Copper Mountain's 12,441' peak is accessible by the storm king lift and a short hike. It also gives access to the Spaulding bowl and Copper bowl, a spectacular pair of alpine bowls with treasure troves of powder to explore. The Spaulding bowl was a blast to drop into and carve between massive drifts through the feet of soft snow. Even better, once you finish the bowl you're funneled into glade runs to enjoy powder stashes in the wide spaces between the massive firs. Between these bowls and the "Enchanted Forest" double black glades on the other side of the peak, I could have spent the whole two days there alone.

Above: The nearby Gore Range.

Below: Beautiful snowy pines.

13,200' Jacque Peak.

Monica scopes out the Spaulding Bowl.

"Natural Alpine Environment"

On our second day on the mountain, we had a small incident as we traversed from the top of Tucker Mountain and dropped into the Copper Bowl. I was following Monica as we went down a steep escarpment and she went out of side over a big time drop. Seeing that it would bottom out below and get really flat, I dropped in just like Monica thinking to gain speed before the flats. When I bottomed out on the drop, there was an unexpected rise that I rocketed up at full speed (45+ mph?) and at the top was surprised to find Monica and two old ladies lying in a heap. I had no choice but to go down and still skittered into them, colliding and taking the skis off one of the ladies. Turned out all 4 of us had been surprised by the dip-and-rise and lost control, with each coming over and hitting the people still laying there from the last crash.

Once we got everyone up and all gear sorted out, it was fortunate that everyone was okay and we parted ways, but my emergency fall had landed me hard on my elbow which proceeded to hurt for the rest of the week and for months afterwards while climbing. Cost of getting old I guess...

The Gore range provides spiky background to the runs coated in White River National Forest's pines and firs

With two full days at copper under my belt I was (other than the elbow) feeling good. I got picked up by Gavin to go to Breckenridge where the Brighton bunch had landed and driven to today. Tomorrow I wanted a rest day so I would relax while Gavin, Sawyer and Mark skied Breck and the NASA crew hit Copper again.

Day 4: Rest and Hospital(ity)

Peak one over Frisco in dramatic black and white.

The last piece of the puzzle was Kate, who was supposed to come out from New Hampshire to ski with us but decided to come in earlier to go backcountry ski touring with friends. It was her first time ever and she unfortunately had a bad fall after not switching her new boots from uphill to downhill mode. While she managed to get back up and ski herself down, when she made it out to Breck, she was having severe knee pain. So the first task of the rest day ended up being taking her to the hospital to get her knee checked out. They examined it, said they suspected ACL damage, gave her some crutches, and sent us on our way.

Kate heads out of the hospital.

Peak One above Frisco from the scenic overlook.

With that dark cloud now hanging over us, we tried to make the most of it by getting food and coffee in Silverthorne, then hitting scenic viewpoints around Frisco to see the beautiful views of the 14,000' Gray's and Torrey's peaks, Ptarmigan peak, and Peak One, the beginning of the range that leads to Breckenridge. Once we'd had our fill of exploring we returned to the lodge to read and hit the hot tub.

Grays and Torreys peaks loom over colorful brush in Frisco Peninsula Recreation Area.

Day 5: Vail

With fresh legs I was ready for my second Colorado resort- Vail. Monica, Brennan, and Katie were heading here today as were Gavin, Mark, Sawyer and I. We left Kate in the Breckenridge room with plentiful coffee, food, and entertainment options. We were especially interested to see if the back bowls at Vail could live up to the reputation, and get a glimpse at the mountain that had bought out our hometown hill a decade ago.

The gateway to the back bowls.

Gavin hunts for the way over to the next bowl.

The border of White River National Forest at Belle's Camp.

Icy view from the Blue Sky Basin.

Throughout the day we linked up and lost the others, but it was fun to chase Brennan when we spotted his turqouise pants and flowing locks on the hill. Of the Game Creek, Sunup, Sundown, China, and Siberia bowls (the "back bowls"), I thought the expanses of the Siberia bowl had the most potential, but the snow quality in all of them was a bit disappointing. We ended up enjoying Blue Sky Basin the most by far, and spending about half the day there. The endless array of glade runs starting from Belle's camp made every run unique, and the snow there was more protected and soft than on the frontside or back bowls.

Couldn't get enough of the scenery.

At the end of the day we said goodbye to Monica, Brennan, and Katie as they headed back to Denver to return to Houston. I was glad I had another 5 days to explore and play before that fate came for me.

Final run back to town. Vail town was surprisingly underwhelming.

Selfie attempt with Gavin, Mark, Sawyer.

Days 6-7: Breckenridge Pow Days

After two days on for the guys, the plan was for a rest day. Once the forecast shifted and called for 8 inches of fresh snow to come down the next day, we decided we couldn't miss out on the opportunity and sent it with a day at Breckenridge. When Gavin, Sawyer and I got on the first lift the snow was coming down in big flakes and it only continued to get heavier. We made a beeline for Breckenridge's peak 6, where you get above the treeline with access to the double black diamond Beyond Bowl which was sure to be a powder stash. Above the treeline though, the snow was so intense the sky and snowy slopes blended together seamlessly, making it impossible to tell where you were going. I actually got motion sickness after dropping into the bowl and feeling my body accelerating but seeing nothing around me moving at all. We quickly dropped back into the trees to have points of reference.

Sawyer, Gavin, and I.

Where the sky meets the slopes.

Above: looking over a cliff (supposedly).

Below: The upper mountain totally hidden.

Following Gavin's trail through fields of powder.

All in all it was an epic day of finding powder troves and making fresh tracks everywhere we went- definitely the highlight of the trip.

Nothing reassures you like a run named Devil's Crotch.

Pow Day 2

The next morning we were eager to get back out before all the good snow got ridden out. We prioritized peak 8 today, since it was a bluebird day perfect for hiking up and exploring the uppermost slopes of the resort. Taking the t-bar up, we were in line while ski patrol fired the avy cannons to prep the bowls.

Sadly no meese were seen.

A perfect bluebird day for a hike.

Peak 8's lift dumps you off well below the high ridge, necessitating a hike to get to the truly good stuff. Sawyer, Gavin and I set off on the trudge, following kicked-in boot marks up the narrow ridge. It only took about 10 minutes but the vertical march in full winter kit and carrying skis/board was exhausting. At the top, we collapsed to catch our breath and take in the 360 views.

Gavin and Sawyer come up the super steep t-bar.

Looking backwards down the ascent of Peak 8.

Shy away from nothing!

Standing at the lip of the massive Imperial Bowl.

Me, Gavin, Sawyer ready to hit the big time.

The drop in for the imperial bowl was fun, a 6 foot drop before hitting the steepest side covered in 2 feet of fresh snow to carve up. Despite the steepness, it felt like safe riding thanks to all the fresh snow and we all got to the bottom laughing. I tried to convince the guys to hike up again but was not convincing enough for that.

The "Whale Tail" connecting peak 8 to 7. A messy, blocky traverse.

After peak 8 and traversing our way over to 7, we also revisited peak 6, which looked entirely new to me after yesterdays' whiteout experience. more glade runs and exploration kept us well occupied until the mountain closed.

In the evening we did a brief exploration of the tourist traps lining Breck's streets. It was treacherously icy out, and I had to give Kate a piggyback ride down more than one stretch of sidewalk where her crutches were questionable.

Exploring downtown Breckenridge on foot (and crutch).

Kate doing her best to bear it.

Day 8: Horsin' Around

Finally the rest day came, but Sawyer was insatiable as ever and bought a day pass to ski again. The rest of us welcomed a chance to relax and cruise around, taking Kate out of the lodge for some fresh air. We drove up to see Green Mountain Reservoir in USFS land, where the sun was shining and the views were great.

Mark and Kate make their way to the overlook.

Me at the Cow Creek campground scenic area.

Above: Bald eagle flyover.

Below: Kate picks me up.

At the top of the dam.

Cow Creek, just off the reservoir would be a great place to hike and camp in the summer.

After that we continued to the Gore Valley overlook, where a dramatic V-shaped valley harbors a railroad at the bottom. Along the way we saw a bald eagle and Kate managed to tame some horses somehow.

Above: snow-blind smilers.

Below: Kate and her new friend.

The horse tamer.

Unknown mountain over the Green Mountain Reservoir - 150mm telephoto lens for imposing effect.

The Gore Valley's sharp walls.

Thawing out back at the lodge.

And as any rest day should end, we hit the hot tubs until they broke down and left us sitting in cold water that we fled.

Day 9: Keystone

For the final mountain day, we headed to my fourth new resort of the trip - Keystone. Situated across from Breckenridge, it was the smallest and most confined of the 4 resorts, but offered great views and some good hikeable terrain.

Dercum Mountain and North Peak were easily accessible and offered moderate glade runs, but we found the snow here wasn't great despite the last two days. Continuing to the more remote and aptly named Outback, I convinced Gavin and Sawyer another hike was in order. From the top of the lift we trudged up another quarter mile or so to gain access to the North and South bowls, which had lots of untouched snow and good lines in them. It was so good, we did it again!

Keystone might have the best views of any resort we visited.

View across the north bowl.

Sawyer and Gavin on the forced march.

Breckenridge seen from the top of Keystone, showing all the distinct peaks.

I was having so much fun that I wanted to hike again, but this time all the way up to Wapiti Peak. At 12,354', the true peak of Keystone is a 1 mile hike and 400' gain from the top of the nearest lift. Gavin and Sawyer drew the line there, so I promised to meet them later and set off. A short hike later, I was standing alone atop Keystone. I continued on the next ~1.5 miles of hiking to gain the far side of the North bowl, where the snow looked untouched. The going got tough, with the wind blasting and every step breaking through the crusted snow to be pulled back out with effort, but I enjoyed feeling like I was mountaineering again.

Looking back at what I hiked. No sign of others up there.

They always have the most reassuring signs up there.

Birds-eye view of North Peak. A rare angle to see it from, I think.

Incredible views.

Finally, I ran out of places to hike with boundary fences on 2 sides and the way I came behind me. I strapped in and dropped the north side of the north bowl, making the only lines down it.

At the end of the line.

Getting ready to make the only lines on this side of the bowl.

It was a lot of work for realistically little gain, but I was happy to have hiked to the top of every resort on the trip. Meeting up with the other guys, we skied out the rest of the day until it was closing time. We were all tired and satisfied with the final day. That night we ate well and packed up to leave in the morning.

Day 10: Goin' down to South Park

Not to leave without putting any new pins in my map, I convinced the car we should see some sights on the way back. We drove over the continental divide and down into Park County, where a little known National Monument lies. Florissant Fossil Beds has the petrified stumps of Redwoods from 34 million years ago in the Eocene. We viewed the stumps sheltered near the visitor center and took a short hike through the sunny meadow to see more.

Above: new NPS sign!

Below: petrified redwood stump.

Kate shows off the only triple-trunk petrified tree in the world.

Park County

Further into Park County, we realized we were literally in South Park- the National Heritage Area and then the town. I made the guys stop the car to take a photo with the South Park sign, so they made me be Cartman as retaliation. We tried to drive up Pikes Peak (yes you can drive to the top of a 14er, I think it's lame too) but were told the top mile of the road was too icy to drive so we turned around.

Above: Pikes Peak stands alone.

Below: they made the show into a real thing?

Someone had to be Cartman...

Cave of the Winds

Instead of Pikes we decided to check out the next best tourist trap: Cave of the Winds. This cave has been explored since at least 1880, but likely by natives before then. We opted for a standard tour, hiking down into the caverns below to see dripstone, crystalline formations, and artifacts as we wound our way through passages and chambers. It was a decent cave, but definitely doesn't hold up to Carlsbad or Mammoth if you ask me.

Bears are actually the most common mode of transport out west.

Dripstone making a tapestry of this wall.

Lanterns lit one section of the cave dimly.

Gavin in the narrow keyhole passage.

Garden of the Gods

Finally, after exiting the Rockies toward Colorado Springs we couldn't pass up Garden of the Gods. The red sandstone fins here emerged millions of years ago during an upheaval event, and stand in stark contrast to the gray gneiss and granite forming the spine of the Rockies behind it, including Pikes Peak. We strolled through the Garden between spires and fins, even seeing a few climbers up there. Kate was supposed to wait at an upper area but couldn't resist and crutched her way down a snowy hill to join us- quite the workout!

Plaques big and small.

Sandstone spires in the garden.

The Garden of the Gods, standing like an ancient reef of stone.

Pigeons fill the nooks and crannies of the sandstone.

Star Trek-looking rocks.

Golden hour, showing how thin some of the formations really are.

Finally, we had dinner at Gavin's aunt and uncle's in Colorado Springs, got some ice cream, and drove back to Denver for our hotel near the airport. In the morning we got up and went at our various flight times. I went with Kate to push her through the airport in a wheelchair, which ended up being a big time saver as we got to go through expedited security (still would not recommend getting injured just to do this). Then it was back to Houston... but only for a week.

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